MOT defect file
Parking brake lever or cable travel excessive
Last updated
Quick answer
The handbrake pulls up too far, will not hold at the ratchet, or its cable has seized. It usually means the brake is out of adjustment rather than worn out, but it is still a failure.
- Typical cost
- £90–£320
- DIY viability
- Possible with care
What you might notice
- The lever comes up much further than it used to, sometimes almost vertical, before the car is held
- A handbrake that will not stay put — the ratchet clicks but releases as soon as you let go
- One that will not release fully, leaving a rear brake dragging and a burning smell after a mile or two
- On a car with a foot-operated or electronic parking brake, a warning message or a mechanism that whirrs without achieving anything
What causes it
- A stretched or corroded cable, which is the usual cause on any car that has spent winters on salted roads
- Rear self-adjusters or the calliper handbrake mechanism seized, so the slack is never taken up
- A worn ratchet or pawl in the lever assembly, so it will not hold the position it reaches
- A cable seizing in its outer sheath after the sheath has split and let water sit inside
Advisory or failure?
Excessive travel indicating that the parking brake is incorrectly adjusted is a major defect and a failure. A lever, cable, rod or linkage that is seized, excessively worn or so corroded that it is likely to fail is also major, as is a mechanism that will not hold the brake in the applied position. Light surface corrosion on a cable that still operates correctly, or wear that has not yet affected operation, is recorded as an advisory or a minor defect rather than a failure. Where a seized cable has left the brake applied and dragging, expect the drag itself to be recorded as well — and if the tester judges failure to be imminent, the grade rises to dangerous.
Can you fix it yourself?
Possible with care
Adjustment is often all that is needed, and on many cars that is a nut on the equaliser under the centre console or beneath the car, tightened a turn at a time until the lever holds within the right number of clicks. Work on level ground with the wheels chocked, and never adjust a handbrake with the car resting only on a jack. Two traps catch people. First, adjusting the cable to mask worn rear brakes or a seized adjuster hides the real fault and puts the whole load on one shoe — check the rear brakes free off properly before you touch the cable. Second, cables corrode inside the sheath, and winding tension into a corroded cable is what finally snaps it. Electronic parking brakes are different territory: they need a diagnostic tool to enter service mode, and are best left to a garage.
What it costs
Adjustment alone is usually half an hour of labour, so £30 to £60, and it is often done as part of another job at no extra cost. A rear cable is £20 to £60 for the part, and fitting takes an hour to two depending on how the cable is routed and how much of the exhaust or heat shielding has to come off, so £90 to £200 is typical. A lever assembly is dearer and involves stripping the centre console. The top of the band belongs to electronic parking brake actuators, where the motor alone can be £200 or more and the job needs diagnostic time either side.
What happens if you ignore it
A handbrake that does not hold is a parking problem before it is a driving one. A car that rolls off a slope is a serious matter, and it is an offence to leave a vehicle unattended without the parking brake properly applied. The opposite fault — a cable that will not release — quietly destroys the rear brakes, overheating the shoes or pads, glazing the friction material and warping the disc or drum, so a £30 cable ends up costing several hundred. Since the same mechanism has to deliver 16% efficiency on the rollers, a maladjusted or seized parking brake usually collects a second failure item for efficiency alongside the first.
Common questions
- Is excessive handbrake travel an MOT failure?
- Yes. Travel indicating that the parking brake is incorrectly adjusted is a major defect, as is a lever, cable, rod or linkage that is seized, excessively worn or corroded to the point of likely failure, or a mechanism that will not hold the brake applied. Light corrosion on a cable that still operates correctly is only an advisory or a minor defect.
- How many clicks should a handbrake take before it holds?
- There is no single MOT figure, because correct travel varies between manufacturers; the tester judges whether travel is excessive enough to show the brake is out of adjustment. The practical guide is change: a handbrake that used to hold halfway and now needs the last click or two has lost adjustment, or the rear brakes are worn.
- Can I adjust the handbrake myself?
- Often yes. Many cars have an adjuster nut on the equaliser under the centre console or beneath the floor, tightened a turn at a time until the lever holds properly. Work on level ground with the wheels chocked and the car on axle stands, never a jack alone. Electronic parking brakes need a diagnostic tool for service mode and are best left to a garage.
- What happens if a handbrake cable seizes on?
- The rear brake stays partly applied, which you usually notice as a burning smell after a mile or two. Continuous heat glazes the friction material and warps the disc or drum, so a cable worth £30 can end up costing several hundred pounds in brakes. The tester will record the resulting drag as a defect in its own right.
- How much does it cost to fix a handbrake that pulls up too far?
- Adjustment alone is about half an hour of labour, so £30 to £60, and it is often included with other work. A rear cable is £20 to £60 as a part and £90 to £200 fitted, depending on routing and how much exhaust or heat shielding has to come off. Electronic parking brake actuators are the expensive end of the band.
Cars this happens to most
Of every model with at least 2,000 tests in the DVSA data, these record parking brake lever or cable travel excessive on the largest share of their MOTs. Across all of them the typical rate is 0.6% of tests.
- Volkswagen LT1.6%
40 times in 2,480 tests
- Volkswagen Fox1.3%
299 times in 23,316 tests
- Suzuki Splash1.1%
181 times in 16,969 tests
- Hyundai IX351.0%
513 times in 49,770 tests
- Ssangyong Musso1.0%
34 times in 3,313 tests
- Hyundai I8001.0%
81 times in 7,916 tests
- Vauxhall Agila1.0%
326 times in 32,745 tests
829 times in 85,285 tests
A high rate here is a property of the fleet as much as the car: these models skew old, and almost everything fails more with age. It is a reason to check the item on a used example, not proof the model is badly built. Models with fewer than 2,000 tests are left out because a rate drawn from a few hundred cars moves too much to rank.
Warning lights behind this
This defect is what a tester writes down. What you see from the driver’s seat is a symbol, and it is worth checking which one, because manufacturers reuse the same shape for more than one system.
This is general guidance, not a diagnosis. The severity DVSA records depends on the specific fault found, so the same item can appear as an advisory on one test and a failure on another. Ask a qualified tester or mechanic to inspect the vehicle.
Has this been recorded on your car?
Check the full MOT history for any UK registration.