Is play in a track rod end an MOT failure?

Slight play in a steering joint is a minor defect, but play beyond the permitted limit is a major defect and a failure. It is graded dangerous where the joint is likely to separate, such as a fractured housing or a missing or insecure split pin or castellated nut, because a joint that comes apart removes steering control of that wheel entirely.

Why does my car clunk on full lock when parking?

A worn track rod end is a common cause, because the joint articulates furthest at the ends of the steering travel and knocks as the slack is taken up. You often feel it through the wheel over rough surfaces too, along with a vague patch either side of straight ahead where the wheel moves before the car does.

Is a split track rod end gaiter an MOT failure?

The small dust gaiter is assessed separately from the joint and matters more than its price suggests. One that is merely deteriorating is a minor defect, but a gaiter damaged or missing so that it no longer keeps dirt and water out is a major defect in its own right, even if the joint underneath is still tight today.

Do I need four-wheel alignment after replacing a track rod end?

Yes, without exception. The track rod end sets the toe angle of that wheel, so the alignment is part of the job rather than an optional extra. Measure the old joint's position before dismantling and set the new one to match, but treat that as getting the car safely to the alignment rig, not as a substitute for it.

How much does it cost to replace a track rod end?

Between £90 and £200. The joint itself is only £15 to £40 with under an hour of labour a side; the band starts at £90 because the four-wheel alignment at £40 to £70 is part of the job. Both sides plus alignment lands at £150 to £200. A joint seized onto the inner rod costs more, since the whole track rod is replaced.

MOT defect file

Track rod end has excessive play

Last updated 27 July 2026

Quick answer

One of the joints connecting the steering rack to the wheel has worn loose. It makes the steering vague and eats the inner edge of a front tyre, and it is among the cheapest steering repairs to put right.

Typical cost: £90–£200
DIY viability: Possible with care

Excessive play in a track rod end is a major MOT failure and may be dangerous if the joint could detach. The tester checks that steering movement reaches the road wheel without lost motion. Play is exaggerated.

What you might notice

A vague patch either side of straight ahead, where the wheel moves before the car does
Knocking through the wheel over rough surfaces, and a distinct clunk on full lock when parking
A feathered edge on a front tyre, worn to a fine ramp on one side of each tread block because the wheel is being dragged rather than rolled
A split or missing rubber gaiter on the joint, visible behind the wheel — usually the first evidence, since the wear follows the contamination

What causes it

A perished or torn dust gaiter admitting grit and water, after which the joint wears quickly whatever its mileage
Normal high-mileage wear, since the joint articulates every time the steering moves and takes the full load of cornering
A pothole or kerb impact putting a shock load through the joint and denting its socket
Corrosion of the housing on older cars, or a locknut that was never properly tightened after an alignment, letting the joint work loose on its thread

Advisory or failure?

Play is graded by how much of it there is: slight play in a steering joint is a minor defect, while play beyond the permitted limit is a major defect and a failure. It is graded dangerous where the joint is likely to separate — a fractured housing, a missing or broken split pin or castellated nut, or a retaining device that is insecure — because a track rod end that comes apart removes steering control of that wheel entirely. The gaiter is assessed separately and matters more than its price suggests: one that is merely deteriorating is a minor defect, while a gaiter damaged or missing so that it no longer keeps contamination out is a major defect in its own right, even if the joint underneath is still tight today. A locknut that is loose or a rod that is bent are both major defects.

Can you fix it yourself?

Possible with care

This is one of the more achievable steering jobs, provided you respect two details. First, measure before you dismantle: count the exposed threads or measure from a fixed point, and set the new joint to the same position, or the tracking will be wildly out when you drive it to the alignment rig. Second, separate the taper with a proper ball joint splitter rather than hammering the steering arm, and never lever against the gaiter of a joint you intend to keep. You will need axle stands, a torque wrench, and new split pins or nuts where the manufacturer specifies them. The four-wheel alignment afterwards is mandatory, not optional — no exceptions, however carefully you measured.

What it costs

A track rod end is £15 to £40 in parts with under an hour of labour a side, which makes the joint itself the cheapest item in this section. The reason the band starts at £90 is the four-wheel alignment at £40 to £70, which is part of the job. Both sides together plus alignment lands at £150 to £200. The top of the band is where the joint has seized onto the inner rod and the complete track rod has to be replaced, where the taper has to be cut out, or where an inner rack joint turns out to be the source of the play — that is rack work and costs considerably more.

What happens if you ignore it

A worn track rod end is on a one-way path, and the end of that path is separation, at which point that wheel steers itself. Long before that, the play makes the car wander and feel unpredictable at motorway speed, and the wrong toe angle scrubs a front tyre out in a few thousand miles — the tyre alone often costs more than the joint. If the tester graded it dangerous, the car should not be driven away from the test at all, and using a vehicle in a dangerous condition brings a fine and penalty points independently of the certificate.

Common questions

Is play in a track rod end an MOT failure?: Slight play in a steering joint is a minor defect, but play beyond the permitted limit is a major defect and a failure. It is graded dangerous where the joint is likely to separate, such as a fractured housing or a missing or insecure split pin or castellated nut, because a joint that comes apart removes steering control of that wheel entirely.
Why does my car clunk on full lock when parking?: A worn track rod end is a common cause, because the joint articulates furthest at the ends of the steering travel and knocks as the slack is taken up. You often feel it through the wheel over rough surfaces too, along with a vague patch either side of straight ahead where the wheel moves before the car does.
Is a split track rod end gaiter an MOT failure?: The small dust gaiter is assessed separately from the joint and matters more than its price suggests. One that is merely deteriorating is a minor defect, but a gaiter damaged or missing so that it no longer keeps dirt and water out is a major defect in its own right, even if the joint underneath is still tight today.
Do I need four-wheel alignment after replacing a track rod end?: Yes, without exception. The track rod end sets the toe angle of that wheel, so the alignment is part of the job rather than an optional extra. Measure the old joint's position before dismantling and set the new one to match, but treat that as getting the car safely to the alignment rig, not as a substitute for it.
How much does it cost to replace a track rod end?: Between £90 and £200. The joint itself is only £15 to £40 with under an hour of labour a side; the band starts at £90 because the four-wheel alignment at £40 to £70 is part of the job. Both sides plus alignment lands at £150 to £200. A joint seized onto the inner rod costs more, since the whole track rod is replaced.

The warning light behind this

This defect is what a tester writes down. What you see from the driver’s seat is a symbol, and it is worth checking which one, because manufacturers reuse the same shape for more than one system.

Power steering warning lightWhat it means and whether you can keep driving

This is general guidance, not a diagnosis. The severity DVSA records depends on the specific fault found, so the same item can appear as an advisory on one test and a failure on another. Ask a qualified tester or mechanic to inspect the vehicle.

Has this been recorded on your car?

Check the full MOT history for any UK registration.